On Top of the World

Next morning we left in the rain, first time really that the weather has come against us. Our new driver Karl, made the best of it for us and was a mine of information on the ecosystem in the area and how events affects. Lack of snow and low temperatures, as the region experienced this winter, means less melting snow into the rivers and lakes, which then in turn diminish in size and force. This is climate change at work and not just affecting nature, but in turn, as this country is hugely reliant on hydro power, if levels of water fall, eventually power will be affected. Also many of the rivers and lakes are huge sources of fish both for locks and tourists and again falling levels impacts on this industry. Aspens are beautiful tall trees that we saw everywhere and Karl explained to us that all their root systems are interconnected, so if disease affects one tree, it spreads to all its neighbouring ones thus accelerating the devastation of events like the red beetle. In pointing this fact out to us, he also pointed out the claw marks on many trees, bear marks, he said, that dig so far into the bark, they remain forever! Where are these BEARS?

The Railway Companies and the Railroads have been pivotal in opening up this region in the past. Not just because it was and continues to be, a way to transport goods across this vast country through an intricate network, but also because they built the hotels to house those people who came to visit the area. He brought us to the Spiral Tunnels. In 1858, when Canadian Pacific was trying to find a pass across the Rockies, the Kicking Horse Pass between Banff and Yoho National Park, was discovered. Through this dangerous Pass a route was established, but it quickly became known as the Runaway Express, as many times the train went out of control due to the steep gradient and many lives were lost. After 25 years a solution was found based on specific engineering methods, which is a series of Spiral Tunnels, hence the name and today an average of 25 trains a day will run through these tunnels and very steep terrain. It was quite an interesting story and one that was met with some glee and disbelief that such a dangerous route was used for so long! Off we went again and as the rain poured, Mike from Sonoma, took out his mouth organ and started playing When Irish Eyes are Smiling! I was sitting behind him so I started to sing ( I kid you not) then a few more joined in and we were off! The Texans then wanted the Yellow Rose of Texas and Mike obliged with this also! When we pulled into the next stop at Emerald Lake in the rain, we almost wanted to stay on the bus and continue the fun! However, there was a treat in store for us! Emerald Lake is the deepest shade of Turquoise I have ever seen. It was magnificent and our viewpoint was from above , so it made even more spectacular. At this stage we have seen many lakes, but each one is different and more beautiful than the last.

These was a small monument near the entrance to the lake that I went to see and discovered a tragic story. At the start of WW1 all Turkish, Ukrainian, German, Austrian and Hungarians were interred. It was decided that rather than keep them idle, they should be put to work constructing roads through the parks. These people , who were kept at Otter Camp in this Region, were badly treated and made to work in terrible conditions through the harshest of weather conditions. Eventually they downed tools and refused to work. After it became obvious they were not going to relent, the authorities moved them to other camps and Otter Camp was closed. This monument erected near the site of the Camp, commemorates those people who had come to Canada as immigrants, seeking a better life and got caught up in the War in 1914 when Canada joined the Allies. Another case of being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

So now we are en route to Lake Louise and we are all looking forward to this. We drive along the highway, overshadowed on one side by the Saskatchewan Glacier and on the other side by still more towering forces of nature. Traffic seems to back up and Karl explains that as this is Labor Day weekend, tens of thousands of people are taking the last weekend of the Summer in the area. Overflow car parks are situated a few miles from the Lake, which is hugely popular with walkers, hikers, joggers etc. There are shuttle buses to bring people from the car parks the distance of a couple of miles and the system seems to be seamless. Other Tourist Authorities, take note! Eventually we round the corner and my heart almost stopped! This magnificent property, again initially constructed by the Canadian Pacific Railway company in1890, is situated at the foot of the Victoria Glacier with Lake Louise stretched ahead. I don’t think there is an architect in the world who could have envisaged such a superb location.

Victoria, with the red hair, checked me in, a Canadian by birth, her Dad is from Belfast, she studied Tourism in Limerick and Conor from Belfast brought my luggage to my room! They were thrilled to meet someone from Ireland and I had a great chat with them! My room overlooked the Lake and I can easily say that never haveI had such an amazing view. How I wished John was there to share this magnificent view. Although the rain continued, I wrapped myself up and walked the whole length of the lake to the very end. The tranquility and peace I experienced was immense, despite many other walkers. When a Grizzly Bear has been spotted, a yellow sign is put up on the side of road or path. There were two signs up announcing sightings that day. Apparently the area is known for Grizzlys! So although you are recommended to walk in groups of 6, I walked alone, peering into the surrounding trees and vegetation. Not a BEAR to be seen! However it did not take from the complete enjoyment of my damp walk of about six kilometres. As I walked back, an eerie mist had descended on the Lake, making the hotel invisible. By now, it was nearly seven o’clock and the light was diminishing. It felt almost Brontesque with the mist on the Moors! Maybe I should have sat down and started to write! But a gin and tonic had my name on it, so this became my priority!

The hotel is big and busy, so although there were choices for dining, I didn’t get to where I wished to dine. However, in eating in another nice area, I met up with a couple who had been on the train and who had left us some days previously. Barbara and Neil are from Connecticut, but I spyed her Claddagh Ring and discovered her grandmother had come from Galway. Neil’s grandparents, both Irish, had met when they had been in service to the Guggenheim family in New York, at the beginning of the 20 th Century. She was a nanny and he head coachman and driver, when the automobile arrived. Fascinating! Great to get into conversation with strangers, as you can discover such interesting stories!

Many of us were now becoming concerned as the weather was deteriorating and the helicopter trip looked in danger of being cancelled. Those of us who had opted for it were anxious, but as many had opted out, they just wanted to get to Calgary a little earlier! Our itinerary for this our last day was to start with a ride on the Gondola, up into the Mountains. Those of us who had bonded, Lesley and Leslie from Edinburgh, Jan and Neil from Lancashire and two Aussies were not too excited about this Gondola as all our excitement was building up for the Chopper. En route to the Gondola location, it clouded over and rain began to fall! We had another driver today, Mike, full of chat and he showed us Lake Moraine, famous as it had been pictured on the Canadian $20 bill in the past. He pointed out Mount Whitethorn, known to champion skiers where the snow there, is known as champagne powder. The movie Dr. Zhivaho was also filmed in this area! He pointed out some beautiful homes as we approached the town of Banff and then told us that area is well known for Elk. But for the residents there is a drawback, as in the rutting season, which lasts about 6 weeks, the Elks can bugle for 24 hours! Not easy if you are a light sleeper!

Back to the Gondola! Like a ski lift, 4 passengers are whisked up in an 8 minute journey to a viewing platform on Sulphur Mountain. After about three minutes, we were engulfed in mist and fog! This was going to be disappointing, I thought. We then come through the clouds and my goodness, what a scene! We were literally on top of the world. From the viewing platform, There were steps up to a peak where the Met service have a station and for those of us who felt hardy, we climbed up to the top, a height of almost ten thousand feet. The feeling to be above the Clouds under an azure blue Sky looking at the peaks of the Rockies penetrating the Clouds, was an almost mystical experience. I certainly have never previously had such a wonderful feeling. Although there were many people there, there were bends and steps and seats where one could find a spot and just observe and think. An experience of a lifetime and one that had not been anticipated at all.

We did literally come down to earth then, as after a lunch stop in Banff, which was teaming with people, we went to our heliport to be greeted with the bad news, that because of the weather conditions, the choppers were not flying. Of course we were disappointed, but safety has to be the prime consideration, so it was off to Calgary, adieu to the magnificent Rockies, as I must come back to find a BEAR and on to the next part of my adventure! Please do join me in the next few days, as I make my way to Newfoundland, via Calgary and Toronto!