The lure of mysterious North Africa called me in the cold dark evenings in Northern Europe as we struggled to come out of the off/on lockdown of the past two years. The call of the Medina, the smell of the spices, the haggle of the Souk and the promise of warm bright days enticed me to book a break in Marrakesh.

We arrived this evening to Menara Airport considereal to be amongst the ten most attractive airports in the world, to be met by Muhammad who took over and looked after us til we reached our destination. He pointed out the walls of the Old City , gave us a potted socio economic history lesson of Marrakesh with the Maumonia Hotel having centre stage(did u watch Inventing Anna) and then drew up on the side of a very busy street in the Medina, while announcing this was as far as he could go! The frenetic almost entirely male environment caused us to pause apprehensively, until he introduced us to Nourredeine from our Riad , who was standing kerbside with a chap complete with cart!!

Now I had been corresponding with Nourredeine for sometime and had ( wrongly) assumed Nourredeine was female. Apparently access to our Riad was now on foot through a myriad of lanes and alleyways, some full of little shops open for business lots of cats, dashing hither and thither, ( I didn’t look too closely at what some of them carried in their mouths), dozens of mopeds weaving in and out on the unsven surface, causing our trusty guide to become concerned for us. We walked for about 10 mnutes, accompanied by our man pushing the cart with our bags, while wondering anxiously where this was leading. Down another dingy Street and suddenly a magnificent carved doorway announced our Riad. We would never have found it ourselves!

We were welcomed in the courtyard with mint tea and Moroccan pastries and the peace of this tranquil location was welcome after our frenetic walk.

Our room, while splendidly appointed and over looking the Central courtyard, seemed to have one large ,king size bed, despite my reservation stating we were two ladies seeking a twin bedded room! We both enjoy one another company, but not that much!

Our new best friend Noureideine recommeded a restaurant to us that I had reviewed, walked us there through the maze of the Medina, and then returned to escort us back after a lovely meal, to the Riad.

I was woken by the call to prayer from the Muzzeine in the early hours of the morning as the sun arose over the nearby magnificent Atlas mountains and it was then I realised I was in Africa.

Moroccan Majesty!

The sun was up, our Guide Abs awaited us, so off we went to see and learn of Morroccan majesty. The Medina was slowly awakening, streets cleaned of the previous days detritus, but still an unfathomable maze to us. He showed us a landmark Arch and assured us we would find our way back to the Riad! He must be joking! Every trader called us to buy slippers, tee shirts, beaten brass trays or pottery! All necessary requisites to bring home…again! Luckily, feng shui had arrived to my home recently so I demurred as much as possible.

While cool upon leaving the Riad, as we approached the now empty famous Jemma EL Fna Square, the sun came out and the temperature rose. En route to the Bahia Palace, Abs gave us a running and not needed, commentary on local mattress production, the pros and cons of the establishment of the Jewish settlement and how to avoid the Jewish stall holders sales chat! When we did reach Bahia Palace however, he was a fountain of information on the history, architecture and magnificent interior decoration of this ancient Palace. The midday heat was now becoming apparent, as was the noise and increases moped traffic! Dear God, they would drive straight through you and those were the ones chatting on their phones as the maneuvered through the pedestrians!!!

We meandered through the fascinating Medina, stopping here and there for Abs to give us interesting background. At one stage, we saw a beautiful building, that housed a tomb of a ancient Morrocan. Not accessable to visitors, Abs told us that unmarried ladies visit this tomb regularly, walk around the tomb seven times, sprinkle some essence, then put a padlock on a fence near the sarcophagus , in the belief that someone would unlock the padlock and they would land a fella!!! I wondered if I put on a burqa, pretended to be local, would I strike lucky!!!

A couple of hours on the sunny roof terrace set us up for our first night time visit to Jemma El Fna Square for food and entertainment. The heart of the City, the Square, is where its at inthe evening, with acrobats, snake charmers and entertainers. We had booked a nice restaurant nearby with a roof terrace but the sight of dozens of sheep’s heads on the food stalls almost put me off eating!

Another fine restaurant , accompanied by lovely Morrocan wine ( another first) and lithe belly dancers brought what we thought was a suitable end to our first full day.

The wonderful Nourredinne awaited to bring us safely back within the Medina, then , why not..a nightcap! As we sat under a starry sky in the Riad courtyard, listening to the tinkling of the fountain, we has a most interesting discussion on the modern history of Morocco. Nourredine told us of so many amazing facts and figures about his country, not least of the recent establishment of the worlds largest solar power station in the Morocco Sahara, which will supply the Uk with a large proportion of their power, the nightcap became the bottle!!

More to follow….

Weather reports of Hurricane Dorian has dominated the news cycle here in Canada, for the past week to ten days. As I watched the Weather Channel and CBS/NBC I felt for the people of the Bahamas and the devastation they were suffering, I listened, half heartedly, to the reports of the path of the hurricane as it missed Florida and was heading for the Carolinas. However, as it made its way up the East Coast, reports began to filter that it might hit maritime Canada! Oh No, this was not on the agenda! As we partied in the Wilds, some of the guests, who were due to travel the following day, starting getting emails with news of delayed flights, resulting in connections being missed. Then the delays became cancellations and the weather reports of how Dorian was going to affect Halifax, through where many of us were transiting and St. Johns, began to sound like Armageddon! So, Saturday the airports in St Johns and Halifax were closed, with one hundred mile an hour winds battering the areas, while we continued with a post wedding party in O’Reilly’s pub in St Johns!

Some people were rebooked on Sunday, the day I myself was due to travel and the airlines assured us the worst would be over. However, Sunday morning, I had a conversation with an airline pilot at the hotel, who ruefully told me we would have a ‘bumpy ride’ later that evening and to be prepared! However, I am writting this as we wing our way across the Atlantic in mild conditions. A wonderful adventure has finished and like all good things, my RockinintheRockies has come to an end. I hope you, the Readers, have enjoyed my reports as much as I have enjoyed, both experiencing a wonderful country and writing about the trip. So until the next trip, au revoir, over and out!

The next part of the adventure involved flights halfway across Canada on Westjet, a Canadian budget carrier, who were most efficient and all connections worked. Because of the distance I was travelling, it took most of the day, but I caught up on my reading and it’s always interesting to observe fellow travellers! However, my powers of observation must have deserted me briefly, when I only realised halfway into my first flight sector, that the passenger in the seat beside me was travelling with her cat! The animal was in a sort of cage under the seat in front, but as I am NOT a cat lover, I was somewhat taken aback when the passenger announced she had to bring ‘ kitty for a pee pee’! The animal was quiet and unobtrusive for the flight , but it was a first for me and I did wonder what would happen if I was allergic to cats, as some people are!

Next morning I woke to a beautiful view of the Harbour in St. John’s from my room in the Sheraton. Newfoundland is ten times the size of Ireland, but has only slightly more than half a million inhabitants, half of whom live in St. John’s. I walked through the town later that day, quaint would be one way of describing, but the people were so friendly! I found a fur store, with magnificent but expensive merchandise and heard from one of the ladies working there, about her daughter, who had qualified as a vet in UCD earlier in the Summer. I then visited a wonderful tea shop called Rockets, was met by the owner at the door, who gave me a tour of all the food, freshly cooked and gave me her recommendations! As I waited for my food, I meet a girl from Cork who was in St Johns for a Music Festival, commemorating an Irish fiddler Seamus Creagh, who had lived in Newfoundland!

The town itself is compact, easy to get around and full of interesting historical monuments and buildings. It has an fascinating history, all of which is superbly documented and shown in a wonderful new museum, The Rooms, well worth a visit. A two hour hop on hop off bus is a quick and handy way of getting a feel for this lovely place. There are a lot of houses painted in different colours, locally known as the Jelly Bean houses! Different explanations are proferred as to why this has evolved. One us that the fishermen had paint over from painting their boats and used the excess to paint the houses, another yarn was the fishermen needed their homes to be different in colour, so they would recognise them more easily when they had an excess of alcohol! The sun was shining and the temperature was in the early twenties but in the winter, the place is very different with heavy snow drifts and severe artic type weather.

The following days leading up to the wedding in Friday was full of fun with friends, enjoying the tremendous hospitality of the Brides family who made us all feel so welcome in their homes. A short detour one evening back to the hotel brought us to the latest retail offering, a cannabis to go shop! Apparently it’s use for medicinal and recreational use was legalised here in October of last year and there are now 25 outlets in the State! A bit different form of retail therapy!

Friday the day of the wedding was sunny and bright. The wedding took place in St John’s Basilica, a magnificent cathedral built in the old Gothic style with beautiful stained glass windows. Then it was off by bus to the Wilds, a golf and country club an hour and half journey from St Johns. The area we drove through was so picturesque, with lakes of varying sizes, all of which freeze in the winter, large pine forests and the Atlantic Ocean could be seen in the distance. This is an area that many residents of St, John weekend in, in their log cabins while they trek, fish and shoot. A lovely relaxing lifestyle.

As with all weddings there was lots of fun and dancing til we dropped in the wee small hours! By now, weather warnings of Hurricane Dorian were filtering through much to the chagrin of many of the guests, but more of that anon.

Well here I am in Calgary, all set to meet the Cattlemen in their Club as arranged. I donned my crystal encrusted jeans and denim shirt, but did stop short of a Stetson and boots! Off I went to the Ranchmen’s Club of Calgary to find it closed for Labour Day! Shock, horror and disappointment, as I had been looking forward to meeting some of the members be they oilmen or ranchers! The Club did contact me this morning as I was about to depart for the Airport, to see if I could visit today, but another reason to return,

In nursing my disappointment, I did what most sensible ladies do, I went shopping! First stop was Holt Renfrew, a magnificent elegant store, owned by the Weston family, who also own Brown Thomas in Dublin and Selfridges in London featuring all the leading Men’s and Ladies designers ! As it was a holiday, there were extra discounts in the main department stores, but still not enough to entice me to purchase a magnificent Valentino black dress, priced at a discount price of $4,950! The Jimmy Choo boots at $5,000 or the Manolo diamanté encrusted black silk stilettos, cheap at $1,890, would go beautifully with the dress! Ah well, I always did have champagne tastes with a beer income! However, I did manage to buy more reasonably priced shoes! I love shopping in North America as you select a discounted item, you get to the till and more discount is applied and then because it’s Labour Day an additional 20% is deducted! They almost pay you to shop! Magic!

Calgary is a lovely compact city with a population of almost one and half million. Some sky scrapers in the business district, but it has developed more out in an urban sprawl along the river. The weather was beautiful and where I stayed downtown in the famous Palliser hotel it was quiet as it was a public holiday. The grid system is so easy to manoeuvre with the streets going left to right and the avenues going up and down! Within walking distance of the hotel, was a pedestrian area full of lovely restaurants and pubs. Sunday had seen the Pride Parade so when I ventured out to eat that evening after arriving late, the place was buzzing! I failed to get into one of the recommended restaurants, the Saltlick, but booked it for the following evening and I was not disappointed. Sitting on a high stool, I had a very tasty steak and was well looked after by the staff.

My room looked out onto the Calgary Tower, which was built in 1968. It stands almost 200 metres high and dominates the surrounding landscape. As part of our package we were due to go up in the high speed elevator to the observation platform. However, problems with the elevator meant the Tower has been closed for the past 7 weeks! So, no view over the City. The biggest event in Calgary is the annual Stampede which runs over a ten day period in the middle of July. I understand everyone wears a cowboy hat and the city is jumping! Mind you, this weekend, they host the Canadian Country and Western Awards, so I reckon there will be a fair amount of line dancing going on! So sorry to miss it!

Next to my hotel, I was intrigued to see a very smart establishment called The Petropolitan. I did suspect what it might be, but had to investigate further! Yes, you guessed it, a top rate hotel for dogs and cats, where they have two choices of accommodation, condos or suites! The ‘guests’ can stay over any period of time, just come for daycare or just use the Spa and grooming facility! Would it work in Dublin? Maybe a business opportunity!

As I waited for the Airport Shuttle this morning I engaged the two young concierge in chat! Both from Morocco, they were charming, unlike other members of the staff in the Fairmont! We had a discussion about Moroccan food , which they miss and reckon the cous cous in Calgary is nothing like home! But now it’s time to say goodbye to Calgary, Alberta and the magnificent Rockies as I make my way to St. Johns’ Newfoundland via Toronto, for the next and final part of my adventure, the WEDDING!

Next morning we left in the rain, first time really that the weather has come against us. Our new driver Karl, made the best of it for us and was a mine of information on the ecosystem in the area and how events affects. Lack of snow and low temperatures, as the region experienced this winter, means less melting snow into the rivers and lakes, which then in turn diminish in size and force. This is climate change at work and not just affecting nature, but in turn, as this country is hugely reliant on hydro power, if levels of water fall, eventually power will be affected. Also many of the rivers and lakes are huge sources of fish both for locks and tourists and again falling levels impacts on this industry. Aspens are beautiful tall trees that we saw everywhere and Karl explained to us that all their root systems are interconnected, so if disease affects one tree, it spreads to all its neighbouring ones thus accelerating the devastation of events like the red beetle. In pointing this fact out to us, he also pointed out the claw marks on many trees, bear marks, he said, that dig so far into the bark, they remain forever! Where are these BEARS?

The Railway Companies and the Railroads have been pivotal in opening up this region in the past. Not just because it was and continues to be, a way to transport goods across this vast country through an intricate network, but also because they built the hotels to house those people who came to visit the area. He brought us to the Spiral Tunnels. In 1858, when Canadian Pacific was trying to find a pass across the Rockies, the Kicking Horse Pass between Banff and Yoho National Park, was discovered. Through this dangerous Pass a route was established, but it quickly became known as the Runaway Express, as many times the train went out of control due to the steep gradient and many lives were lost. After 25 years a solution was found based on specific engineering methods, which is a series of Spiral Tunnels, hence the name and today an average of 25 trains a day will run through these tunnels and very steep terrain. It was quite an interesting story and one that was met with some glee and disbelief that such a dangerous route was used for so long! Off we went again and as the rain poured, Mike from Sonoma, took out his mouth organ and started playing When Irish Eyes are Smiling! I was sitting behind him so I started to sing ( I kid you not) then a few more joined in and we were off! The Texans then wanted the Yellow Rose of Texas and Mike obliged with this also! When we pulled into the next stop at Emerald Lake in the rain, we almost wanted to stay on the bus and continue the fun! However, there was a treat in store for us! Emerald Lake is the deepest shade of Turquoise I have ever seen. It was magnificent and our viewpoint was from above , so it made even more spectacular. At this stage we have seen many lakes, but each one is different and more beautiful than the last.

These was a small monument near the entrance to the lake that I went to see and discovered a tragic story. At the start of WW1 all Turkish, Ukrainian, German, Austrian and Hungarians were interred. It was decided that rather than keep them idle, they should be put to work constructing roads through the parks. These people , who were kept at Otter Camp in this Region, were badly treated and made to work in terrible conditions through the harshest of weather conditions. Eventually they downed tools and refused to work. After it became obvious they were not going to relent, the authorities moved them to other camps and Otter Camp was closed. This monument erected near the site of the Camp, commemorates those people who had come to Canada as immigrants, seeking a better life and got caught up in the War in 1914 when Canada joined the Allies. Another case of being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

So now we are en route to Lake Louise and we are all looking forward to this. We drive along the highway, overshadowed on one side by the Saskatchewan Glacier and on the other side by still more towering forces of nature. Traffic seems to back up and Karl explains that as this is Labor Day weekend, tens of thousands of people are taking the last weekend of the Summer in the area. Overflow car parks are situated a few miles from the Lake, which is hugely popular with walkers, hikers, joggers etc. There are shuttle buses to bring people from the car parks the distance of a couple of miles and the system seems to be seamless. Other Tourist Authorities, take note! Eventually we round the corner and my heart almost stopped! This magnificent property, again initially constructed by the Canadian Pacific Railway company in1890, is situated at the foot of the Victoria Glacier with Lake Louise stretched ahead. I don’t think there is an architect in the world who could have envisaged such a superb location.

Victoria, with the red hair, checked me in, a Canadian by birth, her Dad is from Belfast, she studied Tourism in Limerick and Conor from Belfast brought my luggage to my room! They were thrilled to meet someone from Ireland and I had a great chat with them! My room overlooked the Lake and I can easily say that never haveI had such an amazing view. How I wished John was there to share this magnificent view. Although the rain continued, I wrapped myself up and walked the whole length of the lake to the very end. The tranquility and peace I experienced was immense, despite many other walkers. When a Grizzly Bear has been spotted, a yellow sign is put up on the side of road or path. There were two signs up announcing sightings that day. Apparently the area is known for Grizzlys! So although you are recommended to walk in groups of 6, I walked alone, peering into the surrounding trees and vegetation. Not a BEAR to be seen! However it did not take from the complete enjoyment of my damp walk of about six kilometres. As I walked back, an eerie mist had descended on the Lake, making the hotel invisible. By now, it was nearly seven o’clock and the light was diminishing. It felt almost Brontesque with the mist on the Moors! Maybe I should have sat down and started to write! But a gin and tonic had my name on it, so this became my priority!

The hotel is big and busy, so although there were choices for dining, I didn’t get to where I wished to dine. However, in eating in another nice area, I met up with a couple who had been on the train and who had left us some days previously. Barbara and Neil are from Connecticut, but I spyed her Claddagh Ring and discovered her grandmother had come from Galway. Neil’s grandparents, both Irish, had met when they had been in service to the Guggenheim family in New York, at the beginning of the 20 th Century. She was a nanny and he head coachman and driver, when the automobile arrived. Fascinating! Great to get into conversation with strangers, as you can discover such interesting stories!

Many of us were now becoming concerned as the weather was deteriorating and the helicopter trip looked in danger of being cancelled. Those of us who had opted for it were anxious, but as many had opted out, they just wanted to get to Calgary a little earlier! Our itinerary for this our last day was to start with a ride on the Gondola, up into the Mountains. Those of us who had bonded, Lesley and Leslie from Edinburgh, Jan and Neil from Lancashire and two Aussies were not too excited about this Gondola as all our excitement was building up for the Chopper. En route to the Gondola location, it clouded over and rain began to fall! We had another driver today, Mike, full of chat and he showed us Lake Moraine, famous as it had been pictured on the Canadian $20 bill in the past. He pointed out Mount Whitethorn, known to champion skiers where the snow there, is known as champagne powder. The movie Dr. Zhivaho was also filmed in this area! He pointed out some beautiful homes as we approached the town of Banff and then told us that area is well known for Elk. But for the residents there is a drawback, as in the rutting season, which lasts about 6 weeks, the Elks can bugle for 24 hours! Not easy if you are a light sleeper!

Back to the Gondola! Like a ski lift, 4 passengers are whisked up in an 8 minute journey to a viewing platform on Sulphur Mountain. After about three minutes, we were engulfed in mist and fog! This was going to be disappointing, I thought. We then come through the clouds and my goodness, what a scene! We were literally on top of the world. From the viewing platform, There were steps up to a peak where the Met service have a station and for those of us who felt hardy, we climbed up to the top, a height of almost ten thousand feet. The feeling to be above the Clouds under an azure blue Sky looking at the peaks of the Rockies penetrating the Clouds, was an almost mystical experience. I certainly have never previously had such a wonderful feeling. Although there were many people there, there were bends and steps and seats where one could find a spot and just observe and think. An experience of a lifetime and one that had not been anticipated at all.

We did literally come down to earth then, as after a lunch stop in Banff, which was teaming with people, we went to our heliport to be greeted with the bad news, that because of the weather conditions, the choppers were not flying. Of course we were disappointed, but safety has to be the prime consideration, so it was off to Calgary, adieu to the magnificent Rockies, as I must come back to find a BEAR and on to the next part of my adventure! Please do join me in the next few days, as I make my way to Newfoundland, via Calgary and Toronto!

So, I have arrived in the Rockies at last and all set to get Rockin! The journey here has been so full of experiences, happenings, memories, and new friends, that I have to take a deep breathe and regroup for the Main Event!

Going outside my cabin at Jasper Park Lodge, to seven degrees, soon woke me up to the realisation of how high in the mountains we had come! Layers of clothing were quickly donned as I enjoyed the view of the majestic Mount Robson over breakfast. Then it was off on a coach to visit Medicine, Athabasca and Maligne Lakes and Canyon, hunt for Bears and Moose and learn more about the structure and history of this magnificent mountain range and how the eco system works with underground rivers and water. We were not totally successful in all our endeavours, as I am still waiting to see a BEAR!! However, Mike,, our driver courier and a retired Canadian with a wry sense of humour and Aden, a young Aussie, regaled us with stories, plied us with refreshments and generally gave us a most entertaining day. We heard the sad tale of how many of the trees are being destroyed by a red beetle than can only be obliterated by two months of temperature below minus forty degrees Celsius or by forest fire. The beautiful russet colours of the trees that I spotted, contrasting the many shades of green, are in fact trees that are dying. It’s a nationwide problem and the devastation is terrible. This is Nature at its worst! Visiting Maligne Lake was truly remarkable. The image of the lake is a familiar one,as it has been used extensively in international advertising campaigns the world over. To walk along the lakeshore and sit and contemplate the beauty was a pleasure and a privilege. Nearby, the Canyon was immense! The roar of the water thundering below us, down a couple of hundred feet and the sight of it cascading between the rocks, was beautiful, in a scary way.

We did spy a magnificent Moose with two cubs, apparently a relatively rare sight, but still no BEARS! We saw some of their scat, fresh, Mike informed us, so they must be nearby, he said…..

The temperature shot up in the afternoon and I took the opportunity of playing some golf. I have been sitting, eating and drinking for last few days so needed exercise. Not a great lover of golf carts, I was surprised when the caddymaster insisted I take one for my solo nine holes. Eventually he spilt the beans as to the reason why, four Grizzlys and one Black Bear had been spotted on the Course during the day, so he felt I would be safer in a cart! Incidentally the Black Bear was seen on the Ladies tee at the First! Well, the course was fantastic, challenging but so scenic. Two groups let me through and I had a chat with each of them. Great run on the ball and I was happy with my game especially as I was playing with rented clubs but, yes you have guessed it…NO BEARS! Interesting local rule applies, that if your ball hits any wildlife ( Moose, Bears, Elks) it is not deemed a penalty!!

Early start again next morning in a cool temperature. We were headed for the Columbia Icefields, so layers of clothing starting with thermals, was called for! I have to admit, I had no clue what the Icefields were or held for us, but I soon learned. When I have looked at the Rockies in movies, in photographs and since I arrived on this trip, I always assumed it was snow I was looking at , on these massive mountains. But no, I have now learned, that much of this beautiful white effect is in fact, glaciers, laid down over thousands of years. Of course there is copious amounts of snow also, but the story of the formation of the Glaciers is a fascinating one and well told to us by Mike. The sad aspect of the same story is that the Glaciers are melting at the rate of between 12 and 15 metres per annum. The enormous Athabaska Glacier, that we visited has retreated approximately two kilometres since 1844. We were shown the heights where the Glacier had been 100 years ago, 50 years ago and 10 years ago and the erosion is extraordinary. This is due in no small part to climate change and I consider myself so lucky to have seen and visited this natural phenomenon now, as sadly, it will be gone in the not too distant future. Visitors can walk on the Glacier, thanks to enormous custom made vehicles called Ice Explorers. We were bussed to a central point, when we transferred to this vehicle, that in some way resembled a tank, with huge Tyres and were driven by a young Aussie. Having tettered down a gradient of 32 degrees, we were on the Glacier, with many others. This trip was a total of 5 kilometres on the Glacier? When we arrived I was surprised to see the ice was not as you would expect. Apparently this is due to pollution and dust from the atmosphere. I was puzzled to see so many people walking on the ice, having been told all about the erosion and felt this had to contribute to it also, but our Guide assured us not. We must accept that, but…..? It was a weird experience to walk on the ice, specific areas of access clearly marked out. Flags of different countries had been inserted along the perimeter, in front of which, photos were taken, presumably by citizens of those respective destinations. No Tricolour to be seen and I am hoping that is because we are more conscious of conservation than others??? Whatever, the Glacier Skywalk was an incredible experience and one I shall remember for a long time.

We were then brought to the Glacier Skywalk, which is a new glass floored observation platform, extending 30 metres above the Sunwapta Valley. The Boardwalk to the Platform and the height at which one is walking, gave the most extraordinary views of the roaring river below and the towering Glaciers above! Amazing!

En route to our overnight stop at Banff Springs, we stopped to visit Peyto Lake which had the most amazing turquoise colour. It was so beautiful, down below us and surrounded by thousands of Pine trees. I am sure there were Bears lurking in all that timber, but they must be shy!!

The rain had started now and we had a long day, so we hit the Trans Canadian Highway where Mike showed us how walkways both over and under, had been constructed for the animals to get from one side to the other ! How accommodating! But apparently the animals do use these walkways and the number of traffic accidents that had been caused by animals on the highway, has now been drastically reduced!

Banff is a well known tourist and ski resort with a resident population of only 9,000 people. However it was quite busy and buzzy as we approached our hotel suggesting it was much bigger. Our hotel, Banff Springs is an amazing place, Castle like, it was built by the Canadian Pacific Railroad in 1888. Many of these impressive hotels were built by the Railroads to provide accommodation for passengers at the end of their journeys, a little like Great Southern Hotels did in Ireland. Tomorrow night, we stay in another well known property, also constructed by the Railroad in 1890, Chateau Lake Louise.

I had a pleasant meal in one of the 13 restaurants in the hotel that evening. My view should have been of the golf course, but a misty wet night prevented this. A group of Canadian ladies seated beside me were playing Progressive Rummy, they called it! It looked very much like Bridge to me , so we got into chat and had an interesting discussion of the difference of the two games. One difference was their consumption of wine as they played, leading to rising voices as the evening progressed! A little different to our more sedate Bridge games!

I will leave you to absorb this part of the journey and tomorrow shall tell you about our farewell to the Rockies and maybe a BEAR sighting! Hope springs eternal and all that, but time is running out!

Well Tuesday morning early, off we left on the train to Kamloops with 685 other passengers! 28 coaches, the longest train the Rocky Mountaineer have ever operated! The logistics of the operation were truly remarkable and more importantly , seamless. Checked in day before at respective hotels, luggage tagged and collected, bussed to a dedicated Rocky Mountaineer station where the party had begun! Grand piano in the middle of the complex with 40’s and 50’s music being belted out by great pianist, people milling around, greeting friends, having juice or coffee ( all provided) and buying lots of merchandise! Just what one does at 7.00 in the morning! The All Aboard hooter was sounded and off we all trooped to the carriages, marked on our boarding cards, without a hitch. I had been allocated a window seat and it was with some trepidation I awaited the arrival of whoever was to be my companion for following two days. This lovely lady Susan, from Edinburgh arrived and we hit it off immediately. Like myself, she was travelling solo, was a well seasoned traveller, having visited all US states except Alaska and Hawaii, plus many more locations worldwide and as the journey progressed, we fell into a way of chatting or not and helping one another with picture opportunities. She helped make the journey memorable.

Our hosts on the train were terrific. They pointed out places of interest on the route, alerted us to the photo opportunities in plenty of time, gave us little historical stories of people and places along the route, served us endless refreshments and generally added to our comfort. We had to leave our comfy reclining smooth leather seats, under the tinted glass roof, to go below for breakfast and lunch. Here, we met more fellow passengers and we all exchanged stories of why we were travelling. This was all done while gourmet food was served, perfectly presented, accompanied by a wide range of wines. It was all very impressive. But most impressive was the scenery. It sounds repetitive and sometimes a bit trite to keep saying how incredible and awesome it was, but truly it was breath taking on every corner. A great friend of mine, while on safari with me in the Masai Mara years ago, suggested to me to use my natural camera, my eye, and put the camera away and those words came back to me on the journey. You can spend so much time getting the angle, the meter, the timing and so much else correct on a camera, that you lose the shot! After a while, I just put the camera away and savoured the magnificent landscape.

The train tracks run alongside the Fraser and Thompson rivers, history of which we got from our hosts. The Fraser is the longest river in British Columbia and renowned for its salmon, with an estimated ten million salmon returning each year to spawn! Both rivers of course are closely associated with the Pioneers of the Fur and Gold Trade and many great stories were recounted to us on our journey. One story which took my fancy was that of the popularity of beaver fur many years ago. The beaver skins came from this part of Canada and were much in demand. Apparently it was most fashionable, particularly in Europe, to wear a beaver tophat and the skins were treated in mercury oxide and then fashioned into the latest tophat style. However it was not known then how toxic mercury was and those hatters who were making the hats became effected by the mercury, developing dementia and going a bit mad, leading to the expression “As mad as a Hatter”! Now, there’s a piece of useless information for you!

Every corner we turned, the waterfalls, the rapids, the bridges, the towering mountains or the little towns with their General Stores, all appeared picture perfect. It was also fascinating to see the lumber mills and all the logging, now alas becoming a lost industry, as it is controlled by large conglomerates and small towns that sprung up to support the local sawmill will now die off. The price of progress. It was also interesting to hear that no trees can be felled in National Parks, that if the lumber is transported by river it is tax exempt and that for every tree felled, three saplings are planted. I am impressed that I absorbed so much information. !! Hells Gate, Avalanche Alley, Rainbow Canyon are all intriguing names of places and areas we passed through. Ospreys and bald headed eagles were spotted, but no bears yet! I must have patience!

Well fed and watered, we arrived in Kamloops, a town sustained by Tourism, at about 6 pm. After the early morning start, the abundance of hospitality, particularly the BC Sauvignon Blanc, I regret to stay I didn’t venture further than my hotel and watched the news in UK unfold in BBC World! Another world away!

Next day the logistical miracle worked again. Many coaches arriving at the station but today the train was breaking up and going in different directions! However, it all worked like clockwork with coach numbers being called out to move forward so we the passengers were dropped right at the correct door of the train! Impressive! Next week, they have 1,000 passengers travelling!

We started our journey to Jasper which was a particularly long one, fortified as soon as we boarded, with our gourmet breakfast. Much of the area through which we travelled had been inhabited by those who are now called First Nations people. These people were the original occupants of much of this land and the stories are many of settlements and deals not honoured. This journey continued to bring us nearer to the actual Rockies and we past such wonderful sights like Pyramid Falls, that can only be seen from the train. Another phenomenon to many of us was the number and length of the freight train traffic that past us. We would have to stop to allow these huge long locomotives pass us by. A massive amount of freight still travels daily across Canada by rail. One train freight depot was pointed out to us where we were told 3,800 carriages daily, are handled! The highlight of this days’ journey was the sight of Mount Robson, towering above and welcoming us to the Rockies! At 12, 972 feet high it is the highest peak in the range and rumour has it that the summit is clear on only 12 days annually. We were lucky, against an azure blue sky, it was crystal clear and incredible! How one can wonder at Nature? Seeing Moose Lake, reputedly home to one hundred thousand Moose and Yellowhead Lake brought a fabulous trip to an end when we arrived in Jasper National Park. Here we had to say goodbye to some of our fellow train passengers as people were going in different directions. A large group of us were continuing with the Rocky Mountaineer, but now travelling by coach.

I stayed at the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. Located within the National Park, it is situated between two magnificent lakes both lined with Canadian Pine trees. A beautiful location with every outdoor pursuit available from a great 18 hole golf course, to boats on the lake to fishing, walking and swimming. Accomodation was in log cabins scattered throughout the site. While the location was beautiful, the service in the hotel was forgettable and is obviously a one or two night stopover for groups like ourselves. Having said that, sitting at dusk overlooking the lake with Mount Robson as a backdrop, sipping my wine, I would not have swapped places with anyone. These are the times of reflection , when the poignancy of my trip hits me. John would have so enjoyed every aspect of this trip and how much I would like to share it with him. Many of those I met on the tour very kindly invited me to join them for dinner or drinks, in particular a lively couple from Lancashire, en route to Toronto to see their grand daughter for the first time! However, I am comfortable with my own company and this trip was about reflection.

Before I leave Vancouver I hv to tell u about Dylan a great barman who I met in Lift tonite. Great restaurant and on the Marina fantastic views, sushi to die for and great waiting staff. However Dylan was my guy. Sat me at the Bar in a place where I was comfortable, with a wonderful view of the Bay and TV view of Federers’ match. Dylan’s family are from Newfoundland so when I told him I was headed there, we became solemates! A pleasant man he told many Irish students work in the restaurant through the season. The food is seriously good and the location is……to die for! Adieu Vancouver, I shall return!