Don’t cry for me, Argentina!

Whatever else I do this evening, as I board a flight home and bring my incredible adventure to a close, I will not be crying!

I am sitting in one of the numerous beautiful Parks in the middle of Buenos Aires, enjoying music being played at random, and feeling the heat of the sun.

I arrived here three days ago, for the first time, and have taken this city to my heart, in a way no place has done, for a very long time. I just love it and I hope I will return for a longer stay.

It is buzzy, vibrant, full of music, beautiful architecture, green spaces and trees everywhere . It is very clean and the magnificent statues, commemorating so many of their heroes, are located on every street junction and in Parks. They are kept in pristine condition, like the Parks and the many outdoor spaces.

Like ourselves, Argentina has had a turbulent history and even today, there is a lot of dissension at the present administration. I have witnessed many rallys and demonstrations, all peacefully conducted, but there is a strong, if low key, police presence everywhere. Their inflation is through the roof and if a dollar rate is quoted, it is with the caveat that the rate on the day will prevail. I changed some small number of dollars at an exchange facility on Monday and was astonished at the wad of local currency I was given!

We hit the ground running as time was of the essence. I was staying in a small boutique hotel, where Eva Peron lived in the 40’s.

Her picture hangs in Reception.and there is Evita memorabilia everywhere, plus videos playing on a loop of her glamourous life.

Our wonderful guide in tbe Cemetiere Recolta who showed us the family mausoleum where she is buried, told us that to this day, opinions differ greatly on her popularity. Very black or white, no in between.

It was sad to see her burial place, which is difficult to find as she is buried with her own family ,Duarte and that is the name on the tomb. If you were not aware of that, one could almost pass it by, although there are usually lots of people there paying homage to her.

A lovely cemetery, with former Presidents of the Country, Nobel Prize winners and many other people who were pivotal in different aspects of Buenos Aires life. However, we did find the grave of Admiral William Brown, the father of tbe Argentinian Navy, who hailed all the way from Foxford and a very important man in Argentinian Naval History. Mind you it’s not difficult to miss his grave, as there is a large monument painted in green!!! We also found Fr. Fahy, from Loughrea, who apparently did trojan work with the poor and displaced. One finds the Irish everywhere, leaving their mark!

We had dinner one evening in a super Argentinian steak house, where the meat was fab and the wine from Mendoza went down like velvet. Here, we were asked if we were Colombian! Texans, Philip and Doris were seated beside us and I am not sure if he was suffering from lack of sleep or over indulgence of Mendoza delight, but he asked if we were from Colombia! Probably a good chat up line, and apart from the fact we were not dripping in Emeralds and looked nothing like my image of Colombian ladies, the chat line worked and we had a hilarious conversation with them! The people you meet!!

I always think the Hop On Hop Off bus is a great way to get a feel for a city, particularly when you have a short time there. So off we went…very soon after the start we were involved in a accident! The driver sent a motor cyclist flying, as the bus rounded the corner into theatreland!! So, unplanned stop in the heat of the day, while names etc were exchanged and tempers frayed somewhat! Then we were off again, only a short time later, we stopped and had to switch buses!! All very strange we thought. It turns out, with all the switching and swapping, an integral part of the itinerary was dropped which we only realised the following day!

Anyway, we got off at La Boca, a sorta old glitzy place with artisans, tango dancers and lots of chances, all around. I find these places fascinating and think they are the life blood of a city. Yes, of course, its touristy, but I am a tourist and I want to see these places!

I do have a great video of a tango, but sadly don’t know how to upload a video! Sorry!!

We found a little quieter arcade where we fitted on beautiful chamois like clothing, but sadly didn’t feel they would work in an Irish climate and left them behind! We meet a lovely young artist, Jean Pierre , who with his brother, paint on salvaged wood and have a lovely range of goods. Bought a few lovely items from him so as to remember the authenticity of the place.

Before I knew it, my travelling companions were heading for home! Before they left, we spent part of a lovely day together going to Casa Rosada, Government Buildings, and tbe vibrant Plaza de Mayo, found the beautiful Cathedral, from where Pope Frances came and witnessed an interesting event there.

As Mass was coming to an end, I heard noise of what had to be military marching in the Church and sure enough, a platoon of beautifully attired soldiers appeared on one of the side aisles. There is a tomb of some Father’s of the Revolution in a side altar, and they are guarded daily and this was a changing of the Guard!

Lunch at the famous Cafe Tortoni where it is said Tango was born (that is said everywhere!) A bit like Bewleys, lots of old stained glass and wood, a queue to get in for mediocre food, but it had to be seen and experienced.

Uber has been fantastic! I hv used it everywhere. Now on occasion the quality of the vehicle leaves a lot to be desired, but in a city full of bustling traffic, my GPS a little wonked ( blame the wine) Uber was a godsend. So, final dash to El Ateno Grand Splendid, an incredible bookshop, located in what was once a theatre, with all the layout and architecture of the Theatre enshrined in the Bookshop. It has been said by National Geographic that it is the ” Worlds most beautiful Bookshop” and it would certainly rank top of my hit parade. Sadly all the books were in Spanish so no purchase!!!

Strolled along the long Avenues laid out in grid form and so easy to follow. Au revoir to my pal, who was heading home and my last night …it had to be TANGO!! Now, I had talked about taking lessons, but having seen it danced so beautiful and deftly, by these lithe, tall, beautiful females and males, I decided I would stand back and appreciate the Art as presented by those who were brought up with it. Touristy or not, I was going to a Tango show and it was super!

So, now it was time for me to pack up, check out and try and get in those places I had not managed to do up until then. Tour of Theatre Colon was a highlight and promised to be very special when there appeared to be only 7 of us for the English speaking Tour. Alas and alack, 5 minutes in, a large group of loud New Yorkers arrived late. They spoke over the Guide, they asked the same questions repeatedly, they delayed everyone as they organised group photos and although asked to be silent in the Auditorium as rehersals were ongoing, guess what…got it one!! However it didn’t take from the splendour of this heart of Culture in B.A. where the Season is about to start with a ballet next week. A magnificent Italian designed building, lots of the materials came from Europe and is modelled very much on the Versailles style. Such a pity there were no performances on during our stay.

Dashed to see Palacio Barolo, a commercial building, but designed according to Dantes Divine Comedy, with Hell on tbe Ground Floor ( red floor lights and highly ornate) Purgatory on the 6th Floor, less ornamentation and where reparation begins and Heaven on the 20th floor with a lift only going to the 14th and a steep climb along a very narrow cyndrical staircase, (you have to work to get to Heaven) and for the really brave, 2 more flights along a tiny low staircase to the Telescope at the very top!!! The views were incredible and the light in the telescope was turned on for us, as it is, each night at 10.pm for 10 minutes only!

Heaven or the nearest I will get to it!!!

Although near exhaustion at this stage, a hop to MALBA ( Museo de Arte LatinoAmeticano Buenos Aires)as I dearly wanted to see a Frieda Kahlo Exhibition and maybe some of Diego Rivera,’s work

So artistically sated, reality is beckoning. I am sad to be leaving B.A. but it brought a fitting end to an incredible journey of discovery, of seeing Nature at its rarest, of making wonderful new friends and appreciating the very special privilege that travel brings. A journey never to be forgotten with dear friends and I hope you have enjoyed the journey with me. So until the next time, adieu!