Antics on board!

Although it’s late July and the temperature is a pleasant five degrees, I am amazed to see how little snow there is. After all, we are at almost 80 degrees North, but tbe Expedition crew tell us of the huge difference they saw on their return here earlier this year, after an absence of almost two years because of the pandemic. Two of the largest Glaciers, Monacobreen and Seligenbreen, were originally linked together. A gap of a couple of kilometres between them has now appeared and the calving is extreme. The bird life is prolific and I have now learned from the Ornithologist that when a Glacier calves( large portions breakaway and thunder into the Ocean ) it creates a massive plancton dislodgement, thus providing a feeding bonanza for the birds!

Early Wednesday morning, having been extensively briefed the previous evening by oceanographer and other specialists, we had to frog march with our outer apparel for mandatory BIO security! So, all the velcro fastenings on my boots, gloves, hats, caps and wet gear golf trousers were strongly suctioned by high powered machines to avoid any organic material being brought into this biosphere. Same treatment for walking poles, cameras, phones binoculars and any other equipment that was leaving the Ship. It is very impressive how careful they are in protecting this environment. And then there was the life jacket drill! I was exhausted by the time we were finished and had not yet gone anywhere!

The seas were very rough that morning and I was feeling very queasy! I retired to lie down, thinking I was the only one and was a bit of a whoos being the novice sailor! I took some meds and slept and then ventured out on the Upper Deck, where in conversation with Norwegians discovered they too were feeling very unwell, as were many others! The sea soon calmed down and my confidence to venture out in the Zodiac strengthened somewhat!

So, suited and booted ( large double layer Parka supplied to everyone) , all the thermals one could think off, the heavy life jacket and the back pack containing cameras, binoculars and water, while looking like the Abominable Snowman, I had so much weight on my shoulders, I could hardly walk but was ready to board the Zodiac! We were handed over via a Sailors Grip by a team of people, into the Zodiacs, that were moored and rocking at the side of the Ship, told to slide along, 8 or 12 to a boat, and off we went on the High Seas! How exciting! Lumps of Ice are knocking against the boat as it sped along, the pilot armed with a rifle and most of us have terrified grins on our faces!

We go past massive ice flots under a cold blue sky and listen to thousands of birds chirping and sqacking. We land on a beach called 14th July which is really strong rocky terrain overshadowed by massive Bird Cliffs displaying a myriad of varying geological features. Thousands of birds nest here Guillemots, Puffins, Eider, Skua and Terns to mention but a few. Our Guide was most informative on the habitat and lifecycle of these Arctic feathered friends. A route is marked out with red flags for us to walk to what is called the Hanging Gardens about a kilometre away. Armed Bear Guards are strategically placed along the way, to protect us against Bears……we wish! That’s what everyone wants to see…a Polar Bear! Fingers crossed!

Well, no Bear sighting, but we did see three huge Reindeer grazing! They are not red, rather a dull gray but sporting huge and equally massive antlers that they shed annually! Now, we are actually walking within the Arctic Circle! Hurray! The dynamics on board the Zodiacs are quite interesting to observe. Those with the very large cameras, with zoom lens and bulky equipment get in everyone’s way and view! Most others, like myself, enjoy the ambience and the unparalleled beauty of our location, with our natural cameras, our eyes. You chat and find fascinating people and listen to their stories, as you scoot at high speed back to tbe Ship. We must walk through disinfectant baths on arrival back, again part of the BIO Security.

The facilities on board are terrific from the welcoming champagne in your Suite to a choice of four fab restaurants where the range of both food and wine is wonderful. For a solo traveller like myself, you can be seated at a table with others, who have indicated they would welcome strangers and there is a daily get together for those travelling alone. To date, I have had fascinating Company in tbe restaurants, while getting great attention from the waiters, who seem to especially look after lone ladies! A girl could get very used to this style of living!

In the meantime in tbe absence of my luggage, I purchased some gear at the Airport. As we all know, airport retail is highly designer oriented but in tbe hope of being reimbursed by SAS ( dream on, Jean) I bought Ralph Lauren Trousers and a Max Mara shirt. The trousers were way too long for me, so yesterday I had my large Butler and a diminutive Tailor, both on their knees, pinning up my new trousers! Duly adjusted, they were back to me in a matter of hours! Much quicker than Zipyard! So, all will be revealed later!!

The Midnight sun takes some adjusting to. Bright for 24 hours, it feels very strange and definitely effects ones body and mind. There are black out curtains on the windows but at 03.30 this morning it was weird to look out at a scene similar to mid afternoon. Better than the opposite, tbe Polar Night, that lasts in this region for 4 months, when there is no daylight at all!

Thursday morning we were out on the water for almost two hours. Prior to that while breakfasting, a bearded Walrus was spotted swimming in tbe water near the Ship. All I could see was the face!

We got right up near the huge Glaciers and experienced Calving, when massive chunks broke off the Glaciers and tumbled into the sea creating explosive noise after sounding loud cracks ( so we knew it was coming and got out of the way) as it created great turbulence in the water. It was stunning to witness it and apparently these occasions are becoming more frequent due to a stronger influence of the Gulf Stream, which is having a major effect on the Ice And the Glaciers in this Region.

The Monacobreen, Glacier, that we saw, was discovered in 1906 by Prince Albert 1 of Monaco. It is about 7 kilometres wide and about 60 metres high. But chunks of it are breaking off and snowfall and permafrost conditions in Winter are not sufficient to replace what is being loss. Given time it may well disappear as the next Ice Age is not due for a couple of thousands of years yet!

The very knowledgeable Neil from Canada guided us this morning and was full of information. The Expedition team are an amazing group of young people from all over the world, Finland, Greenland, Patagonia, Chile, UK to mention but a few places. All passionate about climate, wildlife and marine life and conservation. Full of knowledge and interesting facts and anxious to impart that knowledge to us, a perceptive audience.

I met two photographic gurus also working for Silverseas. Both young men, self taught, are helping all of us with our photographic equipment and ensuring the memories we take away are properly saved and edited. One of the guys Denis, spent three months in Ireland, during the pandemic, camping with his Latvian girl friend and visited 25 counties…he never got to Donegal! I am now his VBF as the only Irish person on the Ship! Mind you, Martin, tbe Entertanments Officer, who lives in Nice and is a bundle of laughs and giggles , has also taken a shine to me! I am made up!!!

Internet connection is very sporadic here, especially if we are in a fjord. I am writing this before I head off on a medium endurance hike of about 8 km. We will access the hike from Texas Bay via Zodiacs, so I hope on my return ( if I do) that I will be able to post this story which I hope you will enjoy. Because of the slow connection, its impossible to post pictures to accompany the text until we dock on Monday next. In meantime…..to be continued.